There are a number of reasons your dog might be anxious in the car. It could be that the car’s movement makes them nauseous, or that they only ride in the car when they’re going somewhere like the vet. Whatever the reason, car anxiety can be overcome with patience and, if motion sickness is the cause, help from your veterinarian.

Nobody Likes Feeling Sick

Let’s face it, nobody likes having an upset stomach. If your dog experiences motion sickness, that will need to be brought under control before any progress can be made. Puppies are particularly susceptible to car sickness because their inner ears and sense of balance are still developing. That means some dogs will outgrow motion sickness. For those that don’t sometimes it’s just a matter of limiting food intake prior to car rides. If that doesn’t work, there are anti-nausea drugs made specifically for dogs that your vet can prescribe. As always, never give you dog medication meant for humans unless approved by your vet.

Make Car Rides Fun

Once car sickness is no longer a factor, it may just be that your pup sees the car as a scary place. For dogs that aren’t used to riding in a car, the motion and vibrations can cause them to be afraid of traveling. The key is to help your dog form a positive association with the car before he even gets in.

Don’t drive anywhere just yet. First you need to practice getting in the car and his favorite treat will help him make progress.

Step by Step

Start by walking towards the car and reward your dog with a small, high-value treat for approaching. Repeat this until your dog is happy to approach the vehicle. Next approach the car, open the door, reward your pup and walk away. Repeat this step until your dog is able to stand comfortably next to the car with the door open.

Now begin to encourage him to investigate the car on his own. Place a high-value treat inside and speak to him in a happy tone while he explores. Start with the treats near the door and, as your dog becomes more bold, encourage them to put more of their body inside the vehicle to find the reward. Never force your dog into the car. Doing so will only strengthen the bad association he has with it.

Once your pup will comfortably enter the car, close the door for one second then open it and reward him. If he wants to get out, let him. Keep doing this until you can close the door for 30 seconds to one minute without your dog becoming anxious.

Now it’s time to have your dog to enter the car, then close the door and get in the front seat, rewarding him for calm behavior once you’re fully seated. If he’s able to stay calm, try starting the car, rewarding him and then turning off the car and allowing him to get out if he wants to.

For some dogs, using the physical pressure from restraints like dog car harnesses or a dog anxiety vest can help. Other dogs may prefer enclosed spaces like pet carriers or dog booster seats that can make them feel more secure when traveling.

Finally after he’s mastered being in your car with you and the engine running, it’s time to begin taking short trips. Drive very brief distances – a block or two – before stopping the car, rewarding your dog and allowing them to get out. Gradually increase the distances if your dog stays relaxed and before you know it your pup will be excited to go on road trips with you.

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Plan Ahead

Pack a bag of quick, easy-to-grab supplies for road trips such as extra poop bags, an extra leash, a small towel, vaccination records, any medication your dog needs, and of course, some treats. You will also want to plan pit stops in your travel schedule so your dog can stretch stretch his legs, relieve himself and maybe even play a little ball.

Pet Packing List

Food
Changing your dog’s food on the road could lead to a very upset digestive tract, ruining your plans for the day. If you can’t fit your pet’s food in your limited luggage space, call a few pet shops in your destination city to ensure they have it in stock. Even the big national chains may not carry your dog’s usual brand in a specific locale. It’s amazing how dog food brands can vary by region. And of course don’t forget the treats!

Collapsible Bowls
Bring at least two, one for water and one for food. These are great to keep in a bag while sightseeing, too. If your pet becomes thirsty or the weather gets warm, you’re prepared.

Poop Bags
Do you really want to be late to your hike or sightseeing because you need to run to the pet store? Just throw a few rolls in your backpack, suitcase, or pocket. If you’re doing a road trip, take along a separate roll to keep in the car.

An Extra Leash
Always an extra leash in every suitcase or vehicle.  It may seem strange at first, but it could come in handy many times over.  In the car, when you need to quickly grab a leash for a potty break, or after hiking together and your leash gets wet, or in case one leash gets accidentally packed or left behind in a hotel room. Who hasn’t experienced at least one of these situations?

Vaccination and Microchip Information
Print out a hard copy or two of these vital records, and also take a photo to keep on your phone in an emergency. You might need this for hotel or dog daycare or emergency vet visit. If your pet isn’t micro-chipped, make sure to do so before you leave.

Pack Extras
Flights get delayed, traffic happens, and storms disrupt the best laid plans. So, pack extras of everything your dog may need.

Travel Safety for Dogs

Practice beforehand for any situations your pet may encounter. For example if you will be using a harness or crate in the car for a road trip, do a few shorter practice runs so it’s something familiar and positive.

Make sure your pet is not only restrained in the car, but also traveling in a harness or crate tested by the Center for Pet Safety. This third party company does crash and safety testing for pet products. Many items made for pets are not only unsafe, but could cause more harm during an accident due to poor design.

Know Your Airline’s Pet Policies

If you plan to fly with your dog, be sure and check the rules before takeoff. Most airlines require pets to travel in airline approved carriers. Most of all, make sure you book your flight early, as all airlines do limit the number of pets on each flight.

Dogs on Trains

Did you know pets under 20 pounds can travel most Amtrak routes? All Aboard, Pets covers everything you need to know to make pet reservations for train travel.

Accommodations

If you are staying with relatives or friends, ask a head of time if your dog is welcome to join you on your visit. If staying at a hotel or holiday rental, understand what the term ‘pet-friendly’ means in the reservation or rental agreement. Sometimes it means your pet can be left unattended, but many times it means your pet can’t be in the room alone, which could seriously affect your plans if you aren’t prepared.

Hotel Stays

• Leave the TV on to give your pup some comforting background noise if you’re away from the room. This can also drown out stress-inducing city or neighboring-room noise.
• Always keep the Do Not Disturb sign on the door so that housekeeping doesn’t scare your dog or allow escape the room while you are out.
• Reserve a room away from the elevator or other high traffic areas. With less foot traffic outside the door your dog will be less likely to whine or bark at noises on the other side of the door.
• Set up a ‘safe space’ in the room, with blankets and a water bowl, and spend a little time getting your pup acclimated to the new space before your first pet-free foray away from the hotel.
• Book a dog walk or doggy daycare stay if you need to go somewhere without your dog, but can’t leave your dog in the hotel.

By planning ahead and following a few simple rules, you and your dog can make traveling together safe and fun.

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It’s Never Too Early to Train

In addition to socialization, it’s never too early to begin training other types of training with a puppy. Everything from shaping natural behaviors like elimination to better fit in a human world, to teaching a pup their name and foundational positions like sit and stay can begin right away.

Potty Training

For obvious reasons, this one is an essential and it all comes down to three simple steps.

• Celebrate and reward when your puppy potties in the correct location.
• If your pup goes in the wrong location and you see it happen, calmly interrupt them and immediately bring them to the correct location. If you do not actually see your dog have the accident, clean it up and hope to catch the next one. No amount of scolding will communicate what you did not like about their choice of toilet and all you you will be left with is a confused puppy. And NEVER hit your dog to dicipline them or for any reason.
• Supervision. The more accidents your puppy has that you don’t see happen, the more they learn that sometimes it’s okay to go in the house.

Guarding

Puppies have a natural inclination to protect the things they love including food, toys and friends.Taking objects away from your puppy when they are in the middle of enjoying them only teaches them to guard these objects, not to give them up. Instead, try redirecting your dog to another object in order to remove the first or trade them for something of high value.

Mouthing

Like human babies, puppies explore the world with their mouths, which means those razor sharp little teeth are never too far away. If your pup gets forceful with their nipping, let them know. Exclaim “ouch” and remove the body part they are chewing on for about 30 seconds. If that doesn’t calm them, after your next “ouch,” completely separate yourself from your pup for 30 seconds to see if they are willing to calm down.

Basic Obedience Training

Puppies can learn all of the basic cues that older dogs can including, down, how to shake paws and roll over. Start with the two foundational behaviors of “focus” and “sit.”

To Build Focus, Use Their Name

• Say your dog’s name in a happy tone of voice.
• When puppy turns towards you, say “Yes!” and reward them.
• With a little practice, your dog will learn not only their name but that when you call them, you require their attention.

Teaching "Sit"

• Begin by holding your hand flat with palm facing up. In the tips of your fingers hold a tiny treat right at your puppy’s nose.
• Slowly raise the hand above your puppy’s head. For their nose to follow the treat, it is most natural for them to lower their body into a sit.
• As soon as that butt hits the ground, say “Yes!” and release the treat.
  Try this five times then try the same thing with no treat in your hand (still rewarding afterward).

If you follow these simple basics you will be well on your way to having an obedient puppy.

The post The First Things to Teach Your New Puppy appeared first on Dog Care and Advice.

How Dogs Understand Humans

Dogs learn words through a combination of deductive reasoning and positive reinforcement, but it’s unclear if dogs are able to conceive of themselves as an entity with a name. Current scientific thought is mixed.

In other words, when you say, “Good morning, Rex,” to your dog, he isn’t thinking, “There’s Mom saying hello to me, Rex!”

He might simply be thinking, “There’s Mom. She’s making that sound that usually means something good is about to happen. I predict breakfast!”

Dogs, of course, also read context and body language. When many dog owners grab the leash, it doesn’t matter what they say. The dog expects to go out.

Dogs certainly think of themselves and how they fit into their world in certain ways: “More food for me!” Or, “This pee smells like mine!” Or, “That dog is not me.” But the extent to which dogs understand the concept of self, it’s hard to say.

There are definite ways to help your dog understand when you’re talking to him, and to ensure that he responds to you when you need him to.

Choose a Dog Name With Dog Hearing in Mind

If it’s not too late, you should choose a name for your dog that’s short (one or two syllables) and distinct in terms of its sound. You want a name with hard consonants, like Max or Molly. Softer names with lots of vowels, like Oodles, will stand out less, and long names are more likely to sound muddled and confusing to a dog’s ears.

How to Teach Your Dog His Name

1. Begin with short, five-minute training sessions. Bring your puppy close and keep him on a leash so he can’t run off and have plenty of treats handy.
2. Begin by saying your dog’s name, make eye contact, then say, “Yes!” and give him a treat.
3. Do this several times, then include a few sentences your dog definitely will not understand.
4. Then add in his name again – try to say it always in the same friendly tone – and when he makes eye contact, say, “Yes!” and give him a treat.
5. Repeat several times over a period of several minutes.

Increase the Distance and Continue Training

Continue with the same sort of training described above, but increase the distance between you and your dog.

Keep your dog on his leash, but let him roam around and become distracted. Say his name in an upbeat way, using the same positive tone. When he looks to you, say, “Yes!” and let him come to you for a treat.

With repeated practice, your dog will learn to stop what he’s doing and look to you for direction or positive reinforcement when you call his name.

More Tips

• Say your dog’s name in the same way (tonally, melodically) each time.
• Offer positive reinforcement when your dog responds to his name. You can say “yes” or “good dog,” or offer affection or a treat.
• Don’t use your dog’s name when you don’t want him to respond. Otherwise, your dog will hear his name but learn that perhaps nothing is about to happen. This will create confusion, should he respond or not?
• Don’t use your dog’s name for punishment or when you’re frustrated with the dog. You want your dog to associate his name with positive things.

The post How Dogs Learn Their Names appeared first on Dog Care and Advice.

Whether you have an anxious pup or a super-social one, these tips for how to introduce your rescue dog to new people will help ensure good socialization all around.

Listen to Your Dog and Tell the Humans What to Do

Most dogs prefer calm, quiet introductions.You should never let somebody approach, speak to, or touch your dog unless it’s very clear your dog wants the attention.

Sometimes, introducing your rescue dog to new people is as much about handling the people as the dog! Here are some general tips for introducing your rescue pup to new people:

• Read your dog’s body language. Their ears, eyes, and tails will communicate how they feel.
• Ask the person to ignore your dog at first. Too much enthusiastic attention can be overwhelming for shy dogs. Let your dog choose if and when they want to greet somebody.
• Remind new people to pet your dog’s side, not her head.
• Have treats on hand, and give some to the new person. Nothing smooths the waters of first introductions – and rewards good behavior – like a yummy treat.

Introductions at Home

If you’re introducing your rescue dog to a guest at home, lay the ground rules in advance. Before you guest arrives, give them some instructions. They should:

• Dress comfortably in clothes they don’t mind getting dirty (just in case your rescue dog hasn’t learned not to jump up yet)
• Say hello to you first before paying attention to the dog
• Stay calm and relaxed, and let the dog sniff them before attempting any pets
• Use any verbal cues you use with your dog, such as “sit” or “off”

Depending on your rescue dog’s reactions to new sounds and smells, you may also ask guests to text you when they arrive and meet you outdoors, or to enter through the door without ringing the bell.

For some dogs, outdoor introductions work best by allowing get used to new people in a more neutral territory.

After the new people have said hello, let your dog sniff the guest’s shoes. You can step on the leash to gently prevent jumping. Hopefully, after some initial sniffs, your dog will feel comfortable and everyone can settle in for a visit!

If your rescue dog is nervous with guests, make introductions more gradualy. Consider using a baby gate to separate the dog in another area so they can get used to the sights and sounds of guests before saying an up-close hello.

Introductions on Walks

If you are an experienced dog owner, you probably already know to ask permission before you greet another person’s dog. But not everybody has dog experience. When you’re the one holding the leash, you set the tone.

If a stranger approaches your rescue dog, speak up and tell them how to introduce themselves. Here are some phrases you can say to signal how to approach – or not approach – your dog:

• “You can say hi!”
• “Please let him sniff your shoes first.”
• “She doesn’t like to be hugged, but you can scratch behind her ears!”
• “He’s not friendly, I’m sorry.” Even if your dog is very friendly, this is a good one to practice for times you just don’t want to do an on-leash introduction.

If your rescue dog is in the mood for an introductions, follow the basic rules above. But if your rescue dog is nervous around strangers, don’t feel bad about avoiding introductions on walks. Sometimes not doing an introduction is easier.

Introductions are Forms of Socialization

If your rescue dog is anxious or shy, though, you don’t have to hide from introductions. Instead, gradually help them build confidence with safe, controlled introductions. But don’t push it remember, listen to your dog. Introducing your rescue dog to new people in the manner they are most comfortable will help them learn to trust humans and be more at ease in the world.

With time, practice, and patience, you will learn what makes introductions work for your rescue dog.

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No matter how in love you are with your new little friend, you’re going to face some challenges. The good news is, we have some advice to get you through the first days.

Plan Ahead

When your puppy arrives, you won’t want to do anything but play with them and watch them sleep. So, it’s a good idea to set up everything they need before the first 24 hours even start.

Take a Day or Two Off

Taking care of a new puppy takes lots of time and energy, and of course you’ll want to spend every possible moment with your new, furry bundle of joy!

If your work and life schedules allow, plan to take off at least one full day when you first bring your puppy home. In fact, work from home for a few days if you can.

Being there as much as possible in the beginning will help solidify your bond. You’ll be grateful for the time to help your puppy settle in.

Start Potty Training Right Away

As soon as you get your new puppy home, take them to their indoor “potty spot.” When they eliminate, praise them right away with lots of positive vocalizations and a treat.

If your puppy is at the age where they have been fully vaccinated and your vet has given the OK for him to venture outside with you for the first time, you can begin training to him to go potty outdoors. The same principles apply, just make sure your puppy goes potty outside before you bring him indoors.

Plan on potty breaks every two hours and after each time your puppy eats. Accidents are bound to happen, but you can start your puppy off on the right paw by establishing a schedule right away.

Show Him The Puppy Zone

The first day (and night) with your puppy is a time to teach them that they’re part of the family. But you also want to establish a routine, as well as physical boundaries, to teach them proper in-home behavior.

You can establish boundaries and help your puppy get used to her new home on the very first day by setting up a “puppy zone.”

It can be anywhere in your home, preferably where your family spends time. The area should include his bed or crate, favorite toys, and food and water bowls. We like to use a puppy playpen that will keep your puppy from wandering away while no one’s looking.

Show your new puppy their home base as soon as they get home, and throw some kibble or treats in so they enter it of their own accord. The more fun you can make it, the more likely they are to settle in quietly.

Keep Things Quiet on the First Day

When you get a puppy, it’s tempting to invite all your friends over to meet her right away. Of course, you want to show off your new best friend to the world!

But remember, your puppy just went on a scary car ride, and is in a brand new place with people she doesn’t know.

Make your puppy’s first day safe, quiet, and easy. There’s plenty of time for visitors later. For now, let your puppy settle in to her new digs—and her new family—in peace. Beside, she’ll probably want to sleep. A lot.

Prepare for Naps and a Few Sleepless Nights

Being a puppy is exhausting. Puppies sleep, on average, 15-20 hours a day! However, they also have near-hourly bathroom needs.

If your puppy is 8-12 weeks old, they will probably take lots of short naps during the day, and need to go potty right away when they wake up.

On the first night, your puppy will probably wake you up a few times. Like human babies, puppies wake up throughout the night. Establish a bedtime routine on your first day with puppy.

Some people like to have the puppy’s crate in their bedroom. The important thing is to establish a specific sleeping place to help your puppy get the routine. You can make it a warm, inviting place with a nice bed and snuggly toy.

Remind Your Puppy of Mama

Scent is your puppy’s strongest sense, and on their first night away from mom, they’ll be overwhelmed by new smells. You can help make them feel at home by placing a mama-scented t-shirt or towel in their crate.

When you go to pick up your puppy to bring them home, take an old t-shirt or towel with you, and wipe it on the mama dog. Or, ask the breeder in advance if you can take some of the mama’s bedding home with your new pet.

Want another trick to soothe your puppy on her first night away from mom?

Hide a ticking clock under their bedding. The steady tick-tock will remind them of their mama’s heartbeat. Or, get a Smart Love Snuggle Puppy, which mimics the sound of a beating heart and comes with a disposable heating pad for extra comfort.

Ask for Help When You Need It

The first 24 hours with your puppy can be challenging. Puppies have a lot in common with human babies. They need company, activity, and lots of interaction. Sometimes they cry and have accidents as they learn how to be in the world.

Once you get through the first day, you and your puppy will settle into a routine together. But sometimes, you may need a little help. Hiring a loving pet sitter or in-home daycare provider provides worry-free care for your precious new pup.

The post Surviving the First Few Days with Your New Puppy appeared first on Dog Care and Advice.

Prepare Your Dog Before the Move

The goal here is to prevent your dog from feeling like their world is being turned upside down.

In addition to trying to maintain your dog’s routine – feeding times, walks, playtime and so forth – try the following:

• If at all possible, pack slowly over time. The slow disappearance of household items into stacks of boxes will be less threatening if it occurs a little bit each day rather than all of the sudden over a week or weekend.
• If you do have to pack quickly, consider booking a trusted pet sitter or in-home daycare provider for your dog that day.
• Leave one room – the one your dog spends the most time – intact as long as possible so that your dog has a consistent “safe zone” throughout the packing process.
• Set aside your dog’s favorite items such as a dog bed or blanket, favorite toys (especially a food puzzle toy) and some high-value treats to provide a consistent presence throughout the packing, moving, and unpacking transition.
• If you have access to your new home before you move, bring your dog for a visit (or several) while the house is still empty. Let them investigate and smell the new smells on their own and provide them with some fun playtime in the new space.

What to Do with Your Dog During the Move

The goal during the move should be simply to safely keep your dog out of the way and as relaxed as possible.

• The best option is to arrange for your dog to stay with a friend, a dog sitter or at doggy daycare the day of the move. This way, they avoid the stress of the dismantling of their life and start fresh in the new home once all of the items have been transferred inside.
• If arranging for a day out is not possible, you will want to select a room with a door (or a gated yard) for your dog to safely inhabit while you are moving. Remove as many items from that space as possible before the movers arrive and place your dog’s bed and other comfort items in the room. Keep the room as quiet as possible by turning on some white noise.
• For a little extra comfort, turn on a separate device with soothing piano music and use a ThunderShirt and/or DAP collar or diffuser. Fill up a puzzle toy with extra delicious treats and leave it for your dog before you close the door.

How to Help Your Dog Adjust After the Move

The goal after the move is to introduce your dog to the new house while easing their alarm over the chaos of moving supplies.

• As soon as all of your items have been moved inside but before you’ve let your dog in, set up a safe space for your dog (preferably in a room that they will later be spending a lot of time in) similar to the space you set up during the move. Make sure this room has your dog’s comfort items, white noise and other calming elements, and delicious puzzle toy options.
• The first time you bring your dog inside after the move, arm yourself with a bag full of high-value treats (a.k.a., human-grade goodies like hot dogs or chicken cut into tiny pieces). Guide your dog through the house dropping the treats like breadcrumbs along the way. Happy talk to your dog as you go to reassure them that this new place is fun!
• If your dog balks in any area of the home, do not force them to enter or investigate. You can try throwing some high-value treats in that direction, but if that doesn’t work, move on. Allow your dog the space and time to make friends with your new home on their own. The use of force will only make them more fearful.
• Use your safe space judiciously, any time you need your dog to be safely out of the way or while you are noisily setting up or unpacking items.

Featured image: Best Friend’s Home Dog Houses

The post Make Moving House a Safe and Happy Experience for Your Dog appeared first on Dog Care and Advice.

A dog’s temperament is essentially the dog’s general attitude toward people and other animals, and is a result of both inherited and environmental factors. Temperament testing in dogs is most commonly conducted for breeders and rescue organizations, but it can be interesting for any dog owner.

The Canine Temperament Test

During the temperament test, a number of items are evaluated including:

• Prey drive
• Level of aggression
• Protectiveness
• The ability to distinguish between a threatening and non-threatening situation
• Stability
• Confidence
• Friendliness

The test conducted by the American Temperament Test Society involves a brief walk through a park or neighborhood. There are auditory, visual and tactile stimuli throughout the walk, allowing the behaviorist to properly assess the dog’s temperament.

Throughout the walk, the behaviorist looks to see whether the dog has the ability to distinguish a non-threatening situation from a threatening situation. If the dog shows unprovoked aggression, strong avoidance, or panic without recovery, the dog automatically fails the temperament test.

Conducting the Test

The American Temperament Test Society has various subtests to evaluate a dog’s temperament. These subtests are tests you may be able to work on at home. They’re designed for dogs who are at least 18 months of age.

However, if you’re not experienced with dogs, you should request the assistance of a Canine Behaviorist. Your dog will notice if you’re unsure about conducting the test yourself!

Behavior Toward Strangers

To assess behavior toward strangers, there should be a neutral stranger and a friendly stranger. The neutral stranger will go first. An individual unfamiliar to the dog should approach the handler, shake hands with the handler and ignore the dog.

The dog’s reaction to this situation allows the handler to determine the dog’s level of protectiveness and/or possessiveness.

Next, a friendly stranger approaches. An individual unfamiliar to the dog will approach the handler happily and briskly, then pet the dog. The friendly stranger approach provides information in regard to the dog’s active social skills.

Response to Auditory Stimuli

The response to auditory stimuli is a two-subtest evaluation. First, the hidden noise test is conducted.

The hidden noise test involves a hidden assistant who is shaking a metal bucket filled with rocks, and then places it on the trail ahead of the dog. The handler allows the dog to investigate the bucket once permitted. This test allows the handler to determine the dog’s level of alertness and curiosity.

The next test in regard to auditory stimuli is the gun shot test. This test should absolutely only be conducted under the supervision of a Professional Canine Behaviorist. Some dogs react well to this test whereas others do not. In this test by the American Temperament Test Society, a hidden assistant fires a .22 caliber pistol three times in a row. This test evaluates a dog’s recovery response.

Response to a Visual Stimulus

There is one test to evaluate a dog’s response to a visual stimulus. This is the umbrella test.

The umbrella test involves a handler approaching an assistant who is sitting in a chair with an umbrella. The umbrella is closed and held at a 90 degree angle to the approaching handler. When the dog is approximately 5 feet from the umbrella, the umbrella is opened. The handler may encourage the dog to investigate the umbrella, but the dog is only permitted to do so when given the cue. This test evaluates a dog’s response to sudden visual stimuli.

Response to Tactile Stimuli

The response to tactile stimuli involves two tests. In the first test, the handler and the dog will walk the entire length of a 12 ft x 3 ft clear plastic strip. In the second test, the dog will walk the entire length of a 12 ft x 3 ft exercise pen. The purpose of this test is to determine how the dog reacts to unusual footing.

Protective and Aggressive Behavior Evaluation

In the final part of the test by the American Temperament Test Society, the dog’s protective and aggressive behavior level is evaluated. This test should only be conducted by a professional. Aggression is dangerous and if the dog reacts negatively, there will be negative consequences. This portion of the evaluation is divided into three subtests.

In the first part of the aggression and protection test, the handler and dog will stop at a designated marker and an unusually dressed stranger will walk in front of them approximately 38 feet away. This test evaluated the dog’s reaction to an unusual situation. This is the non-threatening portion of the test.

In the threatening portion of the test, an unusual stranger will advance to approximately 10 feet from the handler and the dog in a threatening manner. This test measures the level of aggression and protection of the dog when placed in a threatening situation.

In the final test, the dog’s aggression level is evaluated. The unusual stranger will advance to approximately 18 feet away from the handler and the dog in an aggressive manner. The stranger will never get closer than 10 feet from the dog. The test accounts for the dog’s breed, training, and instincts.

Temperament Testing at a Rescue or Shelter

Temperament testing at a shelter or rescue may be difficult as a dog’s stress level may be high. This means the dog may react differently than he or she would under ‘normal’ circumstances. The temperament test may incorrectly ‘label’ a dog as aggressive, resulting in a more difficult adoption.

However, the temperament test is still useful for helping determine which type of home will be best for a dog. It can also help alert staff and potential adopters to a dog’s strengths and weaknesses.

Additional Temperament Tests

ASPCA SAFER Test: Designed to evaluate a dog’s temperament in a shelter environment. The SAFER test evaluates a dog’s likelihood of future aggression problems. As opposed to focusing on a dog’s temperament in the shelter organization, the SAFER test identifies which behaviors are symptoms of aggressive behavior and determines how to treat them prior to placing the dog for adoption.

My Dog Has C.L.A.S.S.- As a Canine Behaviorist, I’m involved with the “My Dog Has C.L.A.S.S.” program as an Official Evaluator. This program is often utilized at shelter and rescue organizations to enhance the bond between a human and a dog and promotes training based on positive reinforcement. The C.L.A.S.S. Shelter program has been proven to increase adoptions and result in the dogs being less stressed.

The C.L.A.S.S. program allows a dog’s temperament to be assessed in ‘calmer’ situation. With mental and physical exercise, a dog is able to ‘be himself.’ I have found this to be critical when temperament testing in shelters to reduce the anxiety and stress and truly get to know the dog. Once the dog passes the evaluation, he is then registered under the ‘adoptable pets’ section of the APDT website.

Ask a Professional

Temperament testing can be difficult for the average dog owner. If you are at all uncomfortable or unsure of how to conduct a temperament test, a Canine Behaviorist should be consulted to ensure accurate results. Temperament testing can take a turn in a negative direction if not conducted correctly.

The aggression portion of the temperament test, in particular, should never be conducted by anyone other than a veterinary or behavior professional.

The post Aggressive, Stable, Confident: How to Test Your Dog’s Temperament appeared first on Dog Care and Advice.

Consider your transportation options.

On the first day, take whichever form of transport your dog is most comfortable with. Dogs are usually allowed on metro buses and trains, but I’d suggest driving the first day if you usually commute in.

It will be a day of a lot of firsts, and putting your dog on a bus or train might just amplify their anxiety. If your dog is older, or used to being in a carrier or bag, then you should have a smooth experience on the bus. For my small dog, I commute via bus with this bag.

Bring a cozy bed (or two) from home.

My dog is a burrower, so I have beds and blankets galore surrounding my desk. You always want a cozy spot for your dog to rest, and have a special “spot” while at work.

Any type of bed or blanket does the trick; just bring what your dog is used to.

Puzzle toys are great, and treats are a must.

You’ll still have to get work done, aside from introducing your dog to all of your coworkers. The easiest thing to keep them busy while you’re crunching away is to bring some type of puzzle toy, or a chew.

Squeaky toys are a no-no in my office, but KONGs are a huge help for those times I really need to focus. Gus already knows the drill, he brings it to me every morning, I fill it, and then we both get to work.

Not everyone loves dogs as much as you, and that’s ok.

Fact is, not everyone is super-crazy about dogs. While I don’t fully understand that concept, it’s good to assume that you should only let your dog approach new people or coworkers if they’ve asked to pet your dog.

If your dog is nervous about meeting strangers, be sure to make that known by placing a sign on your desk, or having them tethered close to you.

Have plenty of water.

New environments can be stressful, so make sure you have plenty of water. If your dog is lucky enough to have a playmate in the office, make sure they both have access to fresh, clean water.

Take lots of potty breaks.

Sometimes this involves taking your dog outside in your (matching) Halloween costumes because, well, nature calls.

Make sure to take your dog outside more than they’re used to, to prevent any potty accidents as they’ll most likely be drinking more water than normal. Sometimes accidents happen, and we’ve all been there. Just apologize, and make sure to clean it properly as soon as possible.

Be prepared for distractions.

There’s an adjustment period that comes with productivity, especially when there are multiple dogs in the office. Some people find it hard to work near dogs who bark, whine, or play with toys that make noise.

In the event that someone contacts you about your dog being a distraction, approach the conversation with an open mind and work with your peers to find a resolution that works for everyone.

Have a plan B.

Excessive barking? Marking their territory? It’s always good to have a backup plan. Puppies are prone to barking, and if that’s the case for you, take shelter in a conference room or try taking your dog for a long walk at lunch to tire them out.

Dogs are the perfect mental reset.

Sometimes you’ll be working on a big project, and need to step away for a moment to rest your eyes and recharge. Dogs are perfect for this! Just turn around, cuddle that dog or go on a walk and you’ll come back nice and refreshed. Works for me every time.

Leaving the office? Always ask for help.

If you need to run errands or go pick up lunch, it’s always best to ask a colleague if they can look after your dog. You’ll want a point person for your dog because sometimes they can become stressed once you leave. I usually ask “hey, can you keep an eye on Gus while I grab lunch real quick?” and I’m good to go.

Once you get in the swing of things, having your dog with you at work really is one of the best things in life!

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